Tso Moriri, Ladakh

Tso Moriri, Ladakh

Tuesday, March 17, 2009

March Showers Bring April Flowers


Tuesday, March 17 2:05 pm

I’m staring at the sky above me, wondering if the rain clouds that have suddenly filled up a portion of the sky are actually going to bring about some moisture. Or if they will leave as quickly as they appeared. I’m hoping not. The area has been dry for over 6 months – there was no snow this winter and everything is starting to look parched. My desire for rain is a little selfish though since right now I can only imagine how everything around me would look if it were lush green instead of a dry brown.

I’ve been in Mashobra for almost five days now. Five days that have definitely resulted in me losing some extra flab and feeling fitter than I’ve been in a while. Five days that have made me realize that in spite of being alone I am not even close to being lonely. Being a self-proclaimed out and out urbanite, five days of simple living have made me question if that is who I really am.

My biggest treat is going to the local market and buying some sweets. I’ve done it only once so far. I figure that if I have them too often they will stop being a treat. And then what will I be left with?

The best part about being here for me is all the walking/trekking that I get to do. Two, three hours of it everyday and there is no sense of being tired. Completely out of breath when I do the uphill climbs but not at all tired. Loving it!

However, three days straight of Indian meals consisting of roti (a whole wheat tortilla for the benefit of my American readers), daal (lentils) and vegetables cooked Indian style and I was really to kill for pizza. I knew I had to get to Shimla and eat something that wasn’t Indian and also pick up groceries that would get me through the next few days. Now I’m all set with cereal, whole wheat bread, soups, cheese etc. Not to forget a bottle each of wine and rum!

Just outside my room is an apricot tree that’s in the process of blooming. I take a picture of it everyday so I can tell the progressive difference from the day that I arrived until the day that I leave. I expect to post those pictures in about a week.

I must also introduce you to my canine friend, who walks with me every morning shortly after I wake up. We don’t know each other’s names because he doesn’t belong to the people whose farm I’m living in. He just visits me every so often and we either have a one-sided conversation or just walk around. I picked up some treats for him also yesterday as a reward for being such a good friend.

The clouds are still around. I have my fingers crossed. I want all the parched vegetation to have some relief and not be thirsty any longer. Maybe I should do a rain dance or something. I wonder if I could get the steps if I googled it. Anything’s possible.

Tuesday, March 17, 6:35 pm

It still hasn’t rained but there’s a complete cloud cover. I heard rain down in the valley and am hoping that we will also get lucky. I just got back from making kadai paneer for 10 people (the 2 Bahadur’s and their families). If they don’t like the way it tastes, they’re certain to keep me out of the kitchen in the future. Otherwise I’ve decided to make a dish for dinner every night. Join us if you can.

Friday, March 13, 2009

Mesmerized in Mashobra


I’m sitting on the edge of a cliff. I would be intimidated if I thought about how high up I am and that if I stumble over I could be in serious trouble. So I choose not to think about it and focus on the marvels of nature and technology. Here I am in complete solitude and silence, sitting on the edge of a cliff (couldn’t help bringing that up again for effect) and am still connected to the entire world over airwaves. No less than a miracle if you ask me.

I reached the town of Mashobra, which is about an hour away from Shimla (sometimes spelt Simla) last evening. Although I’m passionate about travel, I’m not too crazy about journeys. Which is why I wasn’t particularly looking forward to the 4 ½ hour bus ride from Chandigarh to Shimla followed by an hour to Mashobra by cab. The journey actually ended up being fairly comfortable and I didn’t get impatient or irritable. The bus initially had a request show that was playing on the radio. One of the callers was a street vendor selling pani puri’s (google it, if you don’t know what that is). He was requesting a song for his wife who was perpetually mad at him because every night he would come home late from work. His reason for being late was that after he closed shop at 11 pm, he had a ‘meeting’ to go to. Unfortunately the radio jockey didn’t go into details about the meeting so I’ve been wondering ever since what this post 11 pm meeting must be about!

Mashobra was introduced to me last year by my cousin, Madhu, whose friend has an expanse of absolutely gorgeous land in the area (actually I believe she owns a hill). Thanks to the hospitality of the friend I am now in the midst of mountainous beauty. A portion of the property is used as campgrounds for folks who come to trek in the area. The first group of this year is expected next week. Should be fun for me too. While they freeze their butts out in the tents and use makeshift toilets, I’ll be sleeping comfortably in the cottage bedroom with an attached bath and running hot water.

I don’t think I’ve ever been in such complete silence. I’ve been to very quiet places several times but it’s always been with friends/family. And the people I associate with are usually anything but quiet. So here I am, all by myself, surrounded by silence. I wonder if I will get tired of it at some point.

Well, I’m actually not entirely alone. A little bit away from where I’m staying, is another cottage where the help live, consisting of 2 men both whose names are ‘Bahadur’. The older Bahadur is the boss and has his family with him. The younger one seems like the errand boy and I’m unsure of his marital status and whether his family is also here. Thanks to the two Bahadur’s, I got my meals served in my room, my clothes washed and ironed and escorted when I went out for a trek this morning! They seem a little paranoid that I’ll lose my way and they’ll lose their jobs. I’m sure I’ll manage to shake them off by tomorrow.

Mashobra has been on my mind for the past couple of months and now I’m here. I feel truly special, lucky and blessed to be in such a marvelous place, surrounded by imposing mountains. I feel so small and in a way I also feel so big. I guess it must be because both the Bahadur’s are smaller in size than I am!